Hermès Cape Cod Watches

Hermès Cape Cod Watches


Hermès Cape Cod Watches Watch Releases


Since the introduction of its first in-house mechanical movements in 2012, French luxury goods manufacturer Hermès has progressively moved to improve upon some of their most established designs while serving up interesting new products. For Baselworld 2017, which is much closer than you think, the brand is introducing a new line of four Hermès Cape Cod watches for men featuring an assortment of dial and strap combinations that deliver a variety of visual updates to choose from. While the Cape Cod design has endured for over 25 years, these new models offer a chance to explore some of these visual updates, while briefly considering where high fashion brands like Hermès fall within the watchmaking spectrum.


Hermès Cape Cod Watches Watch Releases


While the debate over fashion house legitimacy in the world of horology rages on, pieces like the Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine demonstrate the brand can easily hold its own. When taking a look at the most recent in-house Hermès Cape Cod TGM models, I also can’t help but compare it to another fashion-centric favorite of mine – the Cartier Tank. Still, the new Hermès Cape Cod watches for men bring something a little more youthful and creative to the mix with their “square inside a rectangle” designs and the kind of versatility that centers around some of the best straps and leatherwork in the business.


Hermès Cape Cod Watches Watch Releases


The flagship model of the collection is the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Manufacture. It features a mechanical self-winding movement, and it’s also the most visually conservative out of the bunch. The Hermès H1912 is an in-house 28-jewel automatic caliber that operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), offers 50 hours of power reserve, and delivers a simple time-only display with a date. There’s a range of finishing that Hermès carries out and this includes circular graining and snail patterns on the mainplate along with the brand’s signature “H” engravings on the bridges and the rotor.

It’s a thin movement coming in at just 3.7mm thick and 23.9mm in diameter, and it’s fitting for a watch of this size. Like some of the other movements used in Hermès watches, it was developed by movement supplier Vaucher, which is 25% owned by Hermes and 75% owned by the Sandoz family (who own Parmigiani). On the other hand, the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Bicolore, Hermès Cape Cod TGM Cadran laque, and Hermès Cape Cod TGM Bracelet de force models all feature basic Swiss-made quartz movements in place of the in-house mechanical caliber.


Hermès Cape Cod Watches Watch Releases


All of the Hermès Cape Cod models feature rectangular stainless steel cases that measure 33mm in diameter. Dial options are plentiful and the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Manufacture is available in blue, black, anthracite, or opaline silvered configurations. Carrying on with its minimal theme, the layout delivers a clean look with rhodium-coated hands, a textured center seconds display, and playful rhodium-coated Arabic numerals that are raised and portray a design that isn’t typical with most watches in this genre. While it’s true that the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Manufacture is the most mechanically interesting in the group, the quartz models bring their own unique flavor to the mix. The Cape Cod TGM Cadran laque, for example, offers a beautifully lacquered dial option (cadran laqué = “lacquered dial” in French) in two graded shades of brown and deep red.


Hermès Cape Cod Watches Watch Releases


The sportiest of the quartz versions is definitely the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Bracelet de force. Like the TGM Manufacture, it features an opaline silvered dial but it comes on a more aggressive and burly bund strap that’s chock full of the meticulous saddle stitching Hermès is known for. This detailed approach to leatherwork is also present in the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Bicolore, which features a two-tone smooth calfskin strap combining “Malta blue” with “Hermès red” or “étoupe.”


Hermès Cape Cod Watches Watch Releases


While it can be difficult to move past the deeply rooted discrimination against fashion brands, the latest efforts from Hermès are indicative of a company that is truly pursuing advancements in their own watchmaking story. In 2012, the brand even purchased Natéber S.A., a Swiss dial maker and a large stake in case maker Joseph Erard. These Hermès Cape Cod models offer everything from casual variety to elegant in-house manufacturing thanks to the TGM Manufacture version. Although pricing for the quartz models varies between $3,175-$4,000 depending on strap and dial options, all dial variants of the Hermès Cape Cod TGM Manufacture retail for $6,200 when paired with the alligator leather strap, but the opaline silvered dial version with natural Barenia calf leather is an exception, priced at $5,950. hermes.com

Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Watch

Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Watch


Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Watch Watch Releases


With Blancpain’s handsome Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe spending the last few release cycles in the limelight, it was only time that the brand’s original combat diver get its due. This year, for Baselworld 2017, Blancpain is paying tribute to the Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec 1 Watch, the original UDT-issued dive watch specially designed with a working “watertightness,” or humidity, indicator directly on the dial.


Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Watch Watch Releases


Due to their hard service life, surviving vintage examples of issued Mil-Spec Blancpain divers are extremely rare, and thus highly coveted amongst vintage collectors. It should thus come as no surprise that Blancpain revisit this interesting series of watches from time to time, especially with the vintage craze (still) seemingly at an all-time high. And while we have yet to see the iconic “Tornek-Rayville” TR-900 pulled from the archives, it’s indeed been a hot minute since Blancpain has paid tribute to a Mil-Spec – all the way back to 2010, to be specific, when we were presented with the limited “No Radiation” edition.

However, this mid-century Blancpain Mil-Spec 1 with the watertightness indicator predates both those examples and is the earliest combat-issued diver from Blancpain when it was introduced in 1957. As a pioneer in pressure-sealing and dive timing through the acrylic unidirectional bezel, the Blancpain Mil-Spec watches would later serve as a reference point for dive watch development, ultimately paving the way for many other significant innovations through the brand’s relationship with the United States Navy.


Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Watch Watch Releases


One such innovation on the original Blancpain Mil-Spec (a signature that would later become a standard feature for many military-issued watches) that has been faithfully re-created on the Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec is the fully-functional humidity indicator at 6:00. Just like the vintage version, in the event of moisture ingress, the upper half-circle of the indicator changes from white to orange, thereby matching the lower half and letting the wearer know the watch had been compromised. Granted, dive watches used to be much more susceptible to fogging or outright flooding – and even though the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was considered a leader in watertightness at the time, the indicator was still a handy barometer for displaying the overall health of the watch’s seals. Now, the odds of this indicator ever seeing action on a fully modern, 300-meter resistant dive watch seems pretty unlikely, but it’s still great to see Blancpain staying true to a key feature on the original.


Blancpain Tribute To Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec Watch Watch Releases


Blancpain has wisely opted to spec this Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec with a 40mm case and the brand’s in-house manufactured Caliber 1150 – an ultra-slim, twin-barreled automatic movement with a four-day power reserve, and a silicon hairspring which grants superior anti-shock and anti-magnetic advantages. It’s an interesting choice, particularly because other Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Bathyscaphe variants have traditionally used the larger 1315 with its 120-hour reserve, but given the real estate restrictions of the smaller case, it does make perfect sense – the 1150 is, after all, the same movement selected for the recently announced 38mm Blancpain Bathyscaphe Oceans Commitment. Size notwithstanding, the movement and its beautiful platinum alloy-coated gold rotor are still visible through the exhibition caseback – a far cry from the purpose-built utilitarian roots of the watch it’s paying tribute to, but the 1150 is too nice of a movement to not show off whenever possible.

The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec watch will be limited to 500 pieces, and will be sold on either a NATO strap, rubber-backed sailcloth as pictured, or Blancplain’s stainless steel bracelet. The price starts at $14,100. blancpain.com

Swiss Watches: Reviews on Cartier Tank Watches

When Louis Cartier in 1917 draw the outline of the first Tank wrist watch, he broke the shackles of the round watchcase, presenting the new and harmonious design. A century later, elegant charm of Tank watch is as usual and it is perfect. And then wrist watch in the 20th century began to rise, and gradually robbed the pocket watch market (even though the Swiss export statistics shows that, until 1930, the popularity of wrist watch is the same as the pocket watch). From the pocket watch to watch, it gave birth to the new design concept and a variety of different solutions, and some successful design scheme stood out from the crowd.

More than one hundred years ago, it was not easy to connect the round watchcase and straight strap in the form of beautiful design. The focus of the problem lied in the design of the junction, and it needed to ensure the continuity of the case and strap. Louis Cartier (1875-1942) began to look for the answer. He can look at the issue from the perspective of a jeweler, predicted that the future of the wrist watch is in the accessories. He also has a keen insight, and joined hands with Edmond Jaeger. Edmond Jaeger is a brilliant watchmaker, and experienced in the production of small-specification movement.

In 1917, the first Tank wrist watch. After the World War I, Cartier gifted the prototype watch to John Pershing, who in the World War I was the American expeditionary force commander. It is said that the new wrist watch linked with another invention that year, Renault’s tanks, and it is Louis Cartier himself.

In 1919, the Cartier Tank watch listed on sale. And the watch case is square, on behalf of the tank body; both sides of the vertical watch ear, on behalf of the tank track, provided the ingenious way to connect the watch strap. Roman numeral timing scales, rail type minute scales, blue steel pointer, and Mosaic convex circular sapphire crystal winding crown, this groundbreaking design continued inheritance, until now.

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